CSA Members 2004: Newsletter Archive

Dear CSA Members,

Today's delivery and recipes are meant to help you create a delicious and memorable holiday meal. I have always loved cooking for a crowd. I have always loved a house full of friends and family, a crowded kitchen, and the smells and sounds of a good party built on the foundation of a big meal.

The number of recipes included this week will not allow for much of a personal letter but I must make a few quick notes. Everything in this delivery will last well in the fridge. The shallots, squash, and popcorn should be kept on the counter or in a cabinet. If you are not familiar with shallots, they fall somewhere between garlic and onions. I usually slice them thin and caramelize them by cooking over low heat on the stovetop in a heavy cast pan of butter. The strawberry popcorn is a new one to us this year, it makes a wonderful decoration, but we have enjoyed only moderate success in stripping the cobs and popping it.

Herb Rubbed Turkey

One could easily fill a page with the merits and pitfalls of roasting a turkey, and I intend to. There are as many ways to cook a bird as there are people cooking them; to brine or not to brine, to cover with foil, deep frying!?!? Like most everything thing else in this world, I know one way to do this and it works. Regardless of the specifics of cooking technique I am completely sold on the idea of an herb rub prior to cooking. I normally cook a bird in the 12 to 15 pound range and the recipe reflects that, a larger bird will simply call for a greater quantity of each ingredient.

In a small cast skillet melt 1/2 to 2/3 stick of butter over very low heat. Add to this 3-4 cloves minced garlic, 3 Tbs minced rosemary and 3 Tbs minced sage. The combination will look more like a mass than individual ingredients sautéing in a pan of butter. Heat this over low heat stirring occasionally, careful not to burn, for at least ten minutes to infuse the butter with the flavor of the herbs.

While this rub is heating you have another job to do. It is not for the faint of heart and vegetarians should be directed toward the cookie tray and out of the kitchen for a moment. Place the turkey on the counter. With neck and giblets and all else that may have previously been placed inside the cavity removed, and with clean hands, you are ready to begin. What you have to do is loosen the skin all the way around the bird, being very careful not to tear the skin in the process. Start at the cavity and gently wriggle and insert your fingers between the skin and breast slowly and carefully work around the thighs and up toward the wings. Take your time, be as thorough as possible and again be careful not to tear the skin. Once you have loosened the skin take the rub off the heat. When the rub is cool enough to touch, but still melted, use your hands to rub it under the skin and onto the bird as thoroughly and evenly as possible. I do not usually stuff my birds, but at this point you are the boss and the turkey is ready for any cooking technique you prefer. I usually cook ours on the barbecue thereby saving the oven for all the other goodies that the day brings. Using an oven thermometer I gauge 450 degrees and place the bird in the Barbie in a large baking pan, uncovered and breast up. Do not place over direct heat. I immediately reduce the temp. to approximately 350 and use the need to baste as an excuse to stand outside with friends around a warm barbecue while others take over the kitchen. I figure on cooking the turkey for 15-20 minutes per pound and always let the instant read thermometer have the final word. When inserted at the thickest part of the thigh it should read 180 degrees.

If you care to, you may utilize the first half hour of cooking time by preparing vegetables to be added to the roasting turkey when there is about 40 minutes of cooking time left. Truth be told, the turkey will not need to be basted until it has cooked for about 1/2 hour. A combination of whole garlic cloves, rings of leeks (1/2 inch), chopped fennel, and large chunks of carrot can be prepared and tossed with olive oil in a large bowl with salt and pepper to taste. When the time is right add them to your roasting pan and let them cook with the bird for the final 30-40 minutes. This recipe translates easily to the oven for those of you who don't care to brave the elements.

Slow cooked Brussels sprouts with Gorgonzola

Simple and delicious

Fill a sink with salted water and soak the Brussels sprouts for about 20 minutes. Clean each one by trimming stem and removing any damaged leaves. In a large heavy cast iron skillet heat about 4 Tbs butter (for the 1 1/2 lbs. Included). Add the Brussels sprouts, cover and cook over painfully low heat until tender. (Up to an hour) Transfer the sprouts to a baking dish and keep warm until just before you are ready to serve. Top with a sparing amount of Gorgonzola and place under broiler until just beginning to brown. Serve immediately.

Kale Sauté

In a heavy cast pan heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil, add a generous handful of chopped hazelnuts and heat over medium heat until browned. Add 3-4 cloves of garlic sliced as thin as you are able, and cook until soft. Meanwhile rinse Italian kale and cut across the stems into strips about 1 1/2 inches wide, add to pan while still dripping wet and cover. Cook stirring occasionally until tender.

Vegetarian Bread Dressing

ingredients

• 4 cups bread crumbs, lightly toasted
• 2 medium carrots, diced
• 1 tsp fresh sage, minced (about 4 leaves)
• 2 medium parsnips, diced
• 1/8 tsp celery seed
• 1 cup vegetable broth
• 2 tsp crushed Italian Parsley
• 3 Tbsp flour
• 1 leek, cleaned and chopped, greens discarded
• 2-3 Tbsp butter
• (1/4 cup water)
• 1/2 cup mushrooms, brushed clean and sliced
• Salt and Pepper to taste

procedure

Combine herbs, bread crumbs, carrots & parsnips in a large bowl, set aside. Over medium heat, warm butter in a skillet and add leeks and mushrooms. Sauté until leeks are transparent and starting to brown. Add flour and stir, cooking 3-4 minutes to let flour toast slightly. Add vegetable broth and simmer about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it starts to thicken. Remove from heat and pour over bread crumb mixture. Stir until fully incorporated. Add up to 1/4 cup of water if mixture seems too dry. Bake, covered, at 350° about 30 minutes. Uncover 10 minutes to brown lightly.

SPIRITED PUMPKIN PIE

Pumpkin pies have long been favored in New England; there is a recipe for a "pompkin" pie in Amelia Simmons's 1796 American Cookery. New England colonists, in spite of their puritanical reputation, were known to enjoy a tot of rum now and then. And if the liquor was hidden in a pie, even the ladies were able to indulge.

for the Crust

• 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 5 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 3 to 4 tablespoons ice water

for the Filling

• 2 medium sized Sweet Dumpling Squash (seeded, baked, and mashed)
• 1/2 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 3 large eggs
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 1/4 cup whole milk
• 1/4 cup dark rum
• 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

procedure

For crust:
Mix flour and salt in processor. Add butter and shortening; process until mixture resembles coarse meal. With machine running, add ice water 1 tablespoonful at a time and process until moist clumps form. Gather into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic; chill 30 minutes. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.)

Roll out pastry on lightly floured surface to 13-inch round. Transfer pastry to 10-inch-diameter glass pie dish. Fold edge under and crimp. Pierce pastry all over with fork. Freeze pastry 45 minutes.

Preheat oven to 450°F. Bake crust until pale golden, about 15 minutes. Transfer to rack and cool. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F.

Meanwhile, prepare filling:
Whisk first 10 ingredients in large bowl until smooth. Whisk in all remaining ingredients. Pour filling into crust.

Bake pie 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Bake until filling no longer moves in center when dish is shaken, about 30 minutes longer. Transfer pie to rack and cool completely. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

Frizzled Leeks

Here is a simple recipe that requires a bit of patience and attention. Slice leeks lengthwise as thin as you are able. Toss with olive oil and sauté over medium heat until just wilted. Transfer to a baking dish and place in the oven uncovered at 350 degrees. The finished product you are looking for most resembles a plate of curly fries or chowmein noodles. That is to say they should be crisp and not clumped together. To affect this you must check them frequently and toss and separate while they bake with a pair of tongs. This recipe might take a little practice but when you get it right it is a remarkable side dish.

Baked Fennel

Cut the greens from the fennel about two inches from the bulb. Carefully slice the bulbs through the stem so that you are left with thin flat planks. Steam these in a double pan until tender. This may take twenty minutes and I continually test for done with a fork. Remove the fennel and drizzle with olive oil. Place fennel in a pie pan or similar low baking dish and top with breadcrumbs and bleu cheese. Bake in a 375 oven until golden brown.

Boistfort Valley Farm
426 Boistfort Road
Curtis, WA 98538
(360) 245-3796

website: BoistfortValleyFarm.com
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